Church of San Francisco in Peru

Lima’s Monastery of San Francisco (Church of San Francisco) attracts the eye with its bright yellow color and its many other unique features, namely the dark catacombs of the church that were the burial site for some 70,000 individuals.

Technically, the Inglesias de San Francisco was Lima’s first cemetery and, as such, the skinny hallways beneath the church are lined with thousands upon thousands of bones, a sight that not everyone enjoys but many find quite fascinating.

Consecrated in 1673, this structure is one of the best conserved Colonial churches in the country. Despite suffering through plenty of shaking caused by at least 3 earthquakes, the church pretty much stands as it always did, though damage from a 1970 quake demanded some repairs.

There are several good reasons for visiting the Church of San Francisco. For art aficionados, there’s an impressive collection of religious art including some very unusual pieces. Of particular note are the works of the Spanish master Francisco de Zurbaran, who did 13 paintings of the biblical patriarch Jacob and his 12 sons, which can be found in the refectory. Also check out all the portraits and an interesting mural of the Last Supper, a modern version with a Peruvian twist that features the apostles dining on guinea pig and the Devil standing beside Judas. Quite eerie but eye catching! And as you’re walking, look up at the cupola over the main staircase. This was carved in 1625 from Nicaraguan cedar and is Moorish in style and simply stunning.

Of course, many people head to the Monasterio de San Francisco to visit the aforementioned catacombs. The trip underground, however, is not for those who tend towards being claustrophobic. The doorways are small and the ceilings low, and visitors tend to have to remain hunched over during their trip. The hallways are not well lit and there is no rhyme or reason to the paths, which are almost maze-like. Those on the guided tour have the option to bypass the catacombs, so don’t hesitate to sign up for the tour even if you don’t want to go underground.

Another reason to visit is the church’s amazing library, which contains about 25,000 antique texts. Many are pre-Colonial. And, of course, the inside of the church itself is very lovely. Check out the very ornate choir stalls! There’s also a pretty little garden and patio that are attractive and quiet and usually devoid of too many tourists.

The one disappointment voiced by most visitors to the site is the fact that photo taking is not allowed anywhere within the boundaries of the church. You’ll have to rely on postcards to take these memories home with you.

It’s indeed best to opt for the guided tour of the monastery as English-speaking guides are available. Try to visit early in the day as tours end towards late afternoon. The late tours are often rushed in order to make it through all the sights before closing time, which is about 5 pm. The cost of a guided tour is quite reasonable – about $2 USD.

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